
It’s been a strange week for us. For starters, Max has for some reason been dreaming angry of late. He wakes up two, three, sometimes five times a night, screaming and indignant, rejecting his mom in favor of me, then rejecting me for Mommy. He’s been, frankly, a pain in the Alps, and none of us slept well for about five days running, until last night. Last night, something inside him realigned, and he slept peacefully – which is to say, without screaming at anyone – staying in his bed until the sun came up to reveal a balcony full of snow.
These are not minor details, the balcony and the snow. We’ve been waiting for months for that balcony to fill up with snow, but it never did. Snow fell on the Alps, and we went to the Alps to see it, but didn’t fall on us at home. And it fell in our neighborhood, right near us – minutes from us, even. Minutes on foot. But it never fell on us. Not on our balcony.
That’s not to say we haven’t had weather. Just last week, the skies went weird and the rain went all sideways, and an honest-to-god hurricane, Hurricane Kyrill, blew through Northern Europe, with winds up around 125 miles per hour. I never knew Europe had storms like that, but this thing was no joke, knocking out rail service and knocking over trucks and knocking down trees, though it did no damage here. All it did for us was howl and strut like a rooster, leaving our streets peppered with tree branches and disfiguring one shutter that we had foolishly left unmoored. The next morning, though, the balcony was still clear.
Not anymore.
The snow is good news for a lot of reasons. It’s good news because Mia’s been begging for “snow candy” – basically, snow with maple syrup on it – ever since Sarah told her she used to make it as a kid. It’s also good because I’ve only got another three months left in Switzerland, and I was beginning to wonder if I was going to be able to ski the Alps before we go home. And it’s especially good because 35 degrees and rainy is only charming for so long – eventually, you want Mother Nature to just commit already.
Well, she done committed, at least six inches worth, which is how I found out that our company car doesn’t have snow tires. I drove Mia to school this morning at a robust 15 miles per hour, stretching what ought to be a 10-minute drive into close to a half-hour, but everyone survived. That includes, by the way, the oblivious pedestrian who stepped into a crosswalk in Baar just as I was gliding slowly to a halt. She looked up in time to jump back onto the curb as I eased up right next to her, which is good, because even after three months I don’t know how to say “I’m sorry for breaking your hip” in Swiss German.
The snow today is good for one other reason: its impeccable timing. Yesterday morning, Max and I took Susan, visiting from Chicago, to the peak of Rigi, our local 6,000-foot pre-Alp. There was but a dusting of white stuff up there, but that was a fair trade-off for us, since today’s storm would have obscured one of the most spectacular vistas I’ve ever seen: a 360-degree expanse of mountains shooting through a totally still cloud layer. In other words, it would have been Jungfrau, revisited.
Mark Twain climbed Rigi once and wrote about it in “A Tramp Abroad” – of the view from the summit, he said, “We could not speak. We could hardly breathe. We could only gaze in drunken ecstasy and drink it in.” He also described “a limitless expanse of tossing white-caps,” and “peaks draped in imperishable snow,” and “radiating lances of diamond dust shot to the zenith” through a cloudbank, and I’m not about to try to out-write Mark Twain, so I’ll just say, um, “Yeah, what he said.”
I do, however, have a better digital camera than Mark Twain ever had, so I’ll add this bit of information, which is somehow missing from my copy of “A Tramp Abroad”:

(Note: this is just the close-up. Click here to see the whole panorama.)
There’s more to tell, but I’ll tell it later. Right now I’ve got pack, and then I’ve got to sleep. Tomorrow we go to Amsterdam so that Max can try hash.
We’re hoping it’ll chill him out.
