I haven’t written much lately.
I know, I know, this is the second time in as many posts that I’ve started with that. It’s self-evident by now, surely. And all the same reasons apply – competing work, shorter Max-naps, less time in general for writing. Add to these the fact that we’ve had a somewhat sleepy last month, and there’s just not that much material for me to work with. The kids are beautiful. The kids drive me crazy. The weather’s beautiful. The weather’s disappointing. The customs are funny. The customs are strange. We’ve covered this ground, every square inch. And since I’m doing what I can to keep this exercise enjoyable, I’m not going to force the words. Sorry.
(Still, the weather really is gorgeous. It’s been in the high 50s lately, with pale, cloudless skies and soft breezes. I’ve put away the hats and the coats, and today I walked out of the house wearing flip-flops, only because I could. I remain disappointed in the winter’s snow output, but having said that, if I had a Weather TiVo, I’d pause it exactly here.)
It’s 9 o’clock on a Wednesday evening right now, and I’m writing this before preparing for a trip to Paris. We leave in about 12 hours, and by “we,” I mean me and the kids, both of whom are sound asleep right now, which is their (not insignificant) contribution to my preparations. Sarah is already there, in a hotel just off the Champs Elysees, so the rest of us will travel without her, via slow train, from Basel to Paris-Est, tomorrow. The trip will take 5½ hours, plus another hour and a half in the car to Basel. Just me and the kids.
So, uh, that should give me something to write about.
In the meantime, there is something I’ve been meaning to get to since we moved here, but haven’t had a chance. I was reminded of it about two weeks ago, when Switzerland invaded Liechtenstein, nearly provoking the first hot war on Swiss territory in nearly 300 years. (Napoleon overran the place in 1798, and there was a small civil war in the 1840s, but I’m not counting either of those. Get your own blog.)
This really happened, by the way. On the evening of March 1, a company of 171 Swiss infantrymen wandered into the woods in the dark and ended up about a mile inside Liechtensteinian territory, maybe because Liechtenstein failed to weigh its vegetables before getting into the checkout line at the Migros, I don’t know. Whatever the reason for their misdirected rage, I learned two things:
One, the Swiss Army obviously doesn’t have this version.
And two, it’s a good thing the Swiss have a solid defense.
That’s dee-fense, by the way, as in “The ‘85 Bears had a great defense.” As opposed to a good offense, which we know they haven’t got. (To quote the Liechtensteinian spokesman, “Dude, seriously? They did what? Because we didn’t notice a thing. Is this a joke?”)
What I mean when I talk about the Swiss defense is something I didn’t know much about before moving here: the Swiss underground. Specifically, the network of bunkers and tunnels and underground lakes that protects the country from a repeat of its Napoleonic fate. Basically, the whole place has been hollowed out and carved up, with hangars and nuclear shelters and airplane runways and who knows what else hidden inside the mountains. It looks like a regular country, but if you scratch the surface you find a giant colony of mole rats.
It’s pretty cool.
Remember that tunnel I wrote about? The one between Luzern and Interlaken? It was six kilometers long, and it had Sarah trying to claw her way out of the car. Yeah, well, it turns out that’s also the world’s largest nuclear shelter, with room for 20,000 people. And, oh yeah, it’s mined with explosives on either end, in case Liechtenstein gets any ideas. It’s true of all the country’s bridges and tunnels – supposedly, it would take them 20 minutes to send this country’s transportation network back to the 18th century. If Napoleon ever does come back, he’s going to have to climb some mountains and wade through some rivers.
Here, here are some pictures. First, a few I snapped around Zug. They’re air vents, which wouldn’t be special in any way, except that they’re located in the middle of grassy meadows and on the side of wooded mountains. And that third one, it’s right on top of Rigi. Which is to say, an air vent perched on solid rock – or what was once solid rock, anyway.

And then there’s stuff like this. It’s not my photo – it’s by an artist named Leo Fabrizio. He’s taken a book’s worth of pictures of this stuff, and I filched this one from the July ’06 issue of a really interesting webzine called Polar Inertia. Go there for more – there are plenty, and they’re crazy good.

Alright then. Time to pack.